勿忘锡兰芬芳的乳|斯里兰卡|狮子岩|空中宫殿

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难怪16世纪葡萄牙的叙事诗人卡莫恩斯这样描绘他眼中的锡兰：锡兰挺着芬芳的乳，葱茏林木轻摇，在水灵灵的纤腰上--《芬芳的乳》。

（原标题：【斯里兰卡】芬芳的乳在空中宫殿）

稿件来源：乐途旅游网与专栏作家猫月在别处

前言

我时常享受旅途时光，享受旅途的苦与乐；烦与闷；孤独与繁华；踽踽独行或结伴而行。

斯里兰卡，想了很久，念了很久。那植物的王国，动物的天堂一直让我憧憬，期待走进她，将她揽入怀！

还有那蓝色的海洋、古迹、寺庙，那些异域的色彩无不诱惑着我快些去，快些去。

无缘尼甘布，随遇而安

飞机在泰国中转。机上，迷迷糊糊的探着头看窗外，借着获取的图片信息想象着尼甘布。那里充满腥味的鱼市，圣玛丽教堂，海边的住宿。。。若亲眼所见究竟是什么样？

带着憧憬的甜蜜，渴望飞机快点载我到达目的地。

中转途中被告知晚点，一小时，两小时，三小时。。。直至最后被告知飞机要在第二天中午起飞才彻底让我放弃想象，无奈的接受此行将无缘尼甘布。

通知了包车司机，飞机晚点，今晚不用接机了，酒店订好是退不了了。今夜，被安排在泰国机场内的酒店住一晚。

旅途的不顺，换个角度看，让自己多了一项新的体验。这样临窗便是登机口的通道，通往载你进入流浪的入口的窗景的酒店此生至今第一次体会，让旅途多了一份邂逅，让故事有了小小的改动。

想起三毛的那句话：刻意去找的东西，往往是找不到的。天下万物的来和去，都有他的时间。

泰国机场前两次都是匆忙而过或是转机，没怎么逛过。这次依然匆匆，只是跟着机场工作人员步行去机场内酒店，免不了上上下下穿梭，也才第一次感到泰国机场确实不小。琳琅满目的商品总是引两只眼睛不住打望。身边的旅人，或与我一样匆匆而过，或不慌不忙挑选商品。各色人种融合在这里，看着Ta们，是另一种景。

一如每次计划之外的变化，既出门，那么，就随遇而安吧。

相关阅读》》》香飘锡兰斯里兰卡茶叶生产全过程

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<a href="#p=8R278J5M2KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R278J5M2KE40006.jpg" alt="锡兰红茶" /></a>
<h2>锡兰红茶</h2>
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<h2>茶园线火车</h2>
<p>在云雾间穿行的山区茶园线火车，一路上经过高山小镇茶园，风光秀丽无比。</p>
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<h2>采茶姑娘</h2>
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<h2></h2>
<p>1824年茶树从中国传入锡兰，1867年苏格兰人开始在岛上经营商业茶园。现在斯里兰卡的茶叶产量排世界第三，出口量第一。</p>
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<h2></h2>
<p>斯里兰卡的茶叶一年采摘四次，以头两次的为优。</p>
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<h2></h2>
<p>采摘4公斤的鲜茶叶可制作1公斤红茶</p>
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<h2></h2>
<p>茶树大多种在山里的斜坡上，每片茶田面积都不大。采茶者每天要采集30-35公斤的茶叶，需要在山坡上走遍多块茶园。</p>
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<p>茶叶至今保持着手工采摘，机械化采茶仍不完善，无法与手工采摘的质量相比。</p>
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<a href="#p=8R27P4662KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img6.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27P4662KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
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<p>茶树的新芽每个月或几周采集一次.</p>
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<a href="#p=8R27P5342KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img5.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27P5342KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p>雨中采茶。</p>
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<p>1公斤鲜茶叶可卖150斯里兰卡卢比，约合10人民币。</p>
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<p>采茶者的身份没有限制，谁来摘都可以。每采摘1公斤茶叶，采茶者要付给园主和地主100卢比。</p>
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<p>采茶者把茶叶带到质检站，把茶叶散开接受检查。</p>
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<p></p>
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<p>装好茶叶的麻袋封口称重，准备运往制茶厂。</p>
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<p></p>
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<p>一天每人能挣将近500卢比</p>
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<p></p>
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<p>茶叶运往这里。</p>
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<h2></h2>
<p>工厂里男人要干的活不多，他们只负责最复杂的工作，比如劈柴烧炉子和修机床。</p>
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<p>烘茶叶的炉温维持在120℃，误差不能超过5℃。</p>
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<p>工厂内部组织严密，路标指示牌遍布各处。</p>
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<p>茶叶加工的第一步是吹蔫，茶叶被铺在栅格上， 用32-40℃的热风吹制4-8小时。</p>
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<p>吹制中加以翻转</p>
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<p>斯里兰卡最贵的茶叫“白茶”，采用未展开的芽苞和嫩叶，只经过蔫化和干燥两个加工步骤。</p>
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<p>吹蔫的茶叶放入滚筒内搅拌，再脱去部分水分。</p>
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<li>
<a href="#p=8R27PHK52KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27PHK52KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p>茶叶在滚筒内搅的越久味道越醇厚。</p>
<i title="img">http://img2.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27PHK52KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img4.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27PHK52KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27PI532KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27PI532KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p></p>
<i title="img">http://img6.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27PI532KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img4.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27PI532KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27PIIO2KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27PIIO2KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p>茶叶从滚筒里出来后，被平铺到黑暗凉爽潮湿的屋子里进行发酵，约持续45分钟到几个小时。茶叶在15℃，湿度90%的环境里发酵的最好。</p>
<i title="img">http://img6.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27PIIO2KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img4.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27PIIO2KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27PJ822KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img5.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27PJ822KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p>许多制茶机器已经服役超过百年，还是旧时的大不列颠人留下的。</p>
<i title="img">http://img2.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27PJ822KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27PJ822KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27PJNA2KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img6.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27PJNA2KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p>下一步就要茶叶被烤至含水量3%-5%，红茶的烤制温度在90-95℃，绿茶105℃。在烤制的过程中茶叶停止发酵，因此烤制的火候十分讲究，烤轻了茶叶会发霉腐烂，烤过了茶水会有焦糊味。</p>
<i title="img">http://img2.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27PJNA2KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27PJNA2KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27PK3V2KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27PK3V2KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p></p>
<i title="img">http://img6.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27PK3V2KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img6.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27PK3V2KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27PLPC2KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img2.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27PLPC2KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p></p>
<i title="img">http://img2.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27PLPC2KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img4.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27PLPC2KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27PNRD2KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27PNRD2KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p></p>
<i title="img">http://img4.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27PNRD2KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img4.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27PNRD2KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27POCM2KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img2.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27POCM2KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p>茶叶在这里筛选分级。</p>
<i title="img">http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27POCM2KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27POCM2KE40006.jpg</i>
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<li>
<a href="#p=8R27POU82KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img5.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27POU82KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p></p>
<i title="img">http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27POU82KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img2.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27POU82KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27PQGN2KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img4.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27PQGN2KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p></p>
<i title="img">http://img5.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27PQGN2KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img5.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27PQGN2KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27PRIQ2KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img5.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27PRIQ2KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p></p>
<i title="img">http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27PRIQ2KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img2.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27PRIQ2KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27PSGT2KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27PSGT2KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p>制好的茶叶放入这台机器，颜色的不对的茶叶将被剔除出来。</p>
<i title="img">http://img2.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27PSGT2KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img4.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27PSGT2KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27PT3K2KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img4.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27PT3K2KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p></p>
<i title="img">http://img2.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27PT3K2KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img2.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27PT3K2KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27PU4B2KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img4.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27PU4B2KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p></p>
<i title="img">http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27PU4B2KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img4.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27PU4B2KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27PUJQ2KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img6.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27PUJQ2KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p>筛分机，按照茶叶颗粒的大小进行分选。</p>
<i title="img">http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27PUJQ2KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img5.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27PUJQ2KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27PV322KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img5.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27PV322KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p></p>
<i title="img">http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27PV322KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27PV322KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27Q06A2KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27Q06A2KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p></p>
<i title="img">http://img5.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27Q06A2KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img5.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27Q06A2KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27Q0K72KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27Q0K72KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p></p>
<i title="img">http://img4.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27Q0K72KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img2.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27Q0K72KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27Q1LS2KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img5.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27Q1LS2KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p>装入纸袋。</p>
<i title="img">http://img2.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27Q1LS2KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img2.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27Q1LS2KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27Q24B2KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img2.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27Q24B2KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p></p>
<i title="img">http://img5.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27Q24B2KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img6.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27Q24B2KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27Q2L42KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27Q2L42KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p>包装上注明茶叶的采摘地，生产厂商信息，重量，保质期，茶种和等级。</p>
<i title="img">http://img4.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27Q2L42KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img5.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27Q2L42KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27Q36I2KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img5.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27Q36I2KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p>运往港口。</p>
<i title="img">http://img4.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27Q36I2KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img6.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27Q36I2KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>
<li>
<a href="#p=8R27Q4HP2KE40006" hidefocus="true"><img data-id="6001" src="http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/s_8R27Q4HP2KE40006.jpg" alt="" /></a>
<h2></h2>
<p>成品。</p>
<i title="img">http://img4.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/600x450_8R27Q4HP2KE40006.jpg</i>
<i title="timg">http://img3.cache.netease.com/photo/0006/2013-03-28/t_8R27Q4HP2KE40006.jpg</i>
</li>

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